Written on June 16, 2011
Soundtrack: Cocteau Twins, Oomingmak

I have been a self professed lazy beach bum this past summer. Spending my days crisping at the beach, learning how to drive, obtaining my license, and still baking, always baking. I haven’t felt the desire to share my creations or experiences with the public. I’ve been dormant for months but now Fall is here, my tan has faded and my priorities have been set straight. This blog entry was written in June, shortly after my trip to Alaska.
Alaska was never on my list of places to see. My upbringing was set in a grey New York, devoid of greenery, nature and wildlife. My version of the great outdoors was visiting extended family on Long Island, which we referred to as “the country.”
I’ve been a city dweller my entire life but for the past several years, I’ve gingerly accepted the lip gloss free, sporty hiker in me. When the opportunity arose to venture into the vast land of Alaska (our 49th state), well…I humbly accepted.
With a North Face puffy jacket, a pair of hiking boots, one pair of jeans and a few shirts, I was OFF!
A large portion of my stay in early June was in Kotzebue, situated 33 miles north of the Arctic Circle. According to a native woman I met, Kotzebue’s population is 80% native (meaning Eskimo, a term used commonly by the natives). I had no prior experience of life in a predominantly Native American community.
Kotzebue at first glance is dilapidated and secluded, yet serene and dare I say…spiritually fulfilling. The village was brimming with tin roof shacks and many, many dogs.



HOUSES FOR SLED DOGS

A HOUSE IN KOTZEBUE
The locals were friendly. Little “half breed” rag-a-muffin children played unsupervised on the dirt roads for hours. Life appeared to be simple. Coming from a city of materialism, convenience and distractions I embraced this slower pace, finding contentment in strolling around, interacting with welcoming strangers and observing Iñupiaq customs. This time of year, in this region, 24 hours of sunlight bathes the sky (I last experienced this in St. Petersburg, Russia 12 years ago).
I enjoyed the experience of riding on the back of a four wheeler at midnight through the tundra while the sun was out. Bizarre, but it gave me a false sense of time and an unexpected burst of energy. “Breakup” was also occurring. Due to the elevated temperatures and 24 hour sunlight, the ice was melting and gigantic slabs of ice drifted by.

AS THE WEATHER WARMS UP, BREAKUP OCCURS

TRADITIONAL ESKIMO PARKA
While in Kotzebue, I was fortunate enough to teach three lovely women, Susan, Jane and Kristen how to make croissants. They were avid bakers on their own and exuded an authentic eagerness to learn. My brief stint at teaching was undeniably fulfilling. I, for the first time was given the opportunity to spread the knowledge I have, share my skill set and at the same time, was so challenged by doing so. When faced with inquisitive students who are equipped with an arsenal of questions, I was prompted to test myself, I searched my brain for informative and correct answers. Being a newbie myself, I learned quite a bit by teaching others. I may have indirectly stumbled upon a new profession while in Kotzebue, I had a purpose there and envisioned myself teaching others on a professional level…even internationally.
A grateful thank you from my students took form in a day of Tundra Tea picking and a homemade Iñupiaq inspired apron, hand sewn by Susan’s Eskimo mother. I was elated, proud and satisfied.

ALL FOOD IS OUTRAGEOUSLY EXPENSIVE IN KOTZEBUE

TUNDRA TEA PICKING

TUNDRA TEA

SUSAN, WHO IS A FORMER REINDEER HERDER AND CURRENT DAY DOG MUSHER, IS ALSO WELL VERSED IN NATURE AND WILDLIFE. HERE SHE EXPLAINS WHAT TYPE OF MUSHROOMS GROW ON THE TUNDRA.

MY BAG OF TUNDRA TEA!

HOMEMADE ESKIMO APRON. A GIFT GIVEN TO ME BY MY STUDENTS.
Kotzebue, is perhaps my new home away from home. The allure of a new place is intoxicating but I’ve found myself asking lately…“can I leave New York permanently?”
What is it that keeps me here in NY? Familiarity, hidden opportunities, the yummy Vietnamese food? Or do I suffer from (as Siouxsie and The Banshees put so eloquently) “Fear of the unknown?”
*I would like to clarify my use of certain terms in this blog post.
During my stay in Alaska, the Natives often referred to themselves as Eskimos, it is not considered to be slanderous in any way. The term “half breed” was used by most Natives I met of mixed race and even used when I was addressed by the natives, as I am of mixed race. These terms were not considered politically incorrect in my daily interactions with the Native people. Thank you.